Balak mo ba magpakabit ng ceiling, pero hindi mo alam saan magsisimula?? Heto na ang beginners guide sa pagpapakabit ng ceiling na tatagal. Learn more about HardieFlex: Website: https://jameshardie.com.ph/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/JamesHardiePH/ For business inquiries E-mail: austriallyan@gmail.com Mah Dudes Candles: https://shp.ee/6ke4srp At dahil madaming nagtatanong, eto pala Camera gear ko: Cameras: https://bit.ly/32KHWBt Lens: https://bit.ly/326xNMY Red Mic: https://bit.ly/2HlvRe5 On-Camera Mic https://bit.ly/2pa8J9h Audio Recorder: https://bit.ly/2oyYYkU Tripod: https://bit.ly/2M6bL7o Standing Desk https://bit.ly/3hOMifp Disclaimer: This video is for entertainment purposes only. All the information and tips mentioned in the video is based on my personal experience, your results may vary. For your Plans and Designs get an Architect.

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Sealings, yan ang pag uusapan natin ngayon ngayong araw my dudes

Anong materialis ang pwede gamitin, paano ikabit, spacing ng framing, at madami pang iba

Okay, so simulan natin sa ating sealing hangers

which is itong rod na naka-embed sa ating slab

In our case, my dudes, nakabaon itong sealing hangers namin sa semento

So, sinabay namin ito sa pagbuos ng slab

Gumamit kami ng 10mm square bars na naka-bend na pa letter L

Then saka i-inangkor sa bakal ng slabs before pouring

So, yung ginagawa ng iba sa ganitong mga sealing hangers ay binubusan muna nila yung slabs

and then saka sila magdidrill dun sa ilalim

Then, i-insertan nila ito ng threaded rod hangers or ng expansion bolts

So, ang advantage ng ganung method ay mas mabilis siya

and flexible yung locations nung inyong mga sealing hangers

Although, personally, I think mas matibay yung method namin

Kahit anong isabit nyo dyan sa sealing hangers namin, hindi basta-basta may hila yung mga bakal na yan

Now, ang disadvantage nitong method namin ay mahirap gawing pantay-pantay yung haba ng ating rods

That is why nag-weld pa kami ng 1 8 x 3 4 flat bar sa ends nila

and dun na kami mag-aadjust ng length discrepancies

So, yung flat bar na yan yung hahawak dun sa aming sealing channel or carrying channel

Ganito yung itsura niya, my dudes

At yung sukat ng gamit namin dito ay 1.5 x 1.5 inch x 5 meters kahaba

Now, ang purpose ng sealing channel na ito ay dyan ikakabit ang ating main framing system

which is itong mga furring channels

So, to attach those, meron tayo nitong tinatawag natin na W-clip

which you just attach like so

Boom! Pwede siyang tiklopin lang by hand

Pero, ang ginawa namin is, makikita nyo, ni Rivet din namin siya para secure talaga

Now, para sa spacing nitong ating furring perpendicular to our carrying channel

Nakaspace sila at around 406 mm

So, ganito yung spacing para saktong tatapat yung boards natin

kada apat na furring

Then, para naman sa ating mga pahalang na furrings or transverse furrings

but some people call this noggins

According sa spec sheet ng ginagamit namin boards

we could space this at around 2.438 meters or roughly 8 feet

Take note, my dudes, itong spacing nito ay depende sa sealing material nyo

So, for our ceilings, 3.5 mm thick na fiber cement boards ang ikakabit dyan

Now, one of the problems dito sa Philippines ay ang molds or amag

dahil nga sa moisture

That is why I tend to avoid organic materials like untreated na plywood

So, common telltale signs ng molds ay ang mga dark spots

and medyo may nangangamoy dun sa mold-infested na thing like your ceiling or your walls

Now, ano ba ang sanhe ng mold growth or pagtubo ng amag?

So, mainly constant 70% relative humidity ang cost nito

So, hindi ito yung gano'ng ka-down to earth yung mga kapamilya mo

Relative humidity yun

Jokes aside, to put it simply, relative humidity or RH is kung gaano kabasa yung hangin

So, dito sa Philippines, on average, above 70% ang ating relative humidity levels all year round

Rounch?

All year round

which is not good kasi in as short as 3 days, pwede na mag-multiply ang mold stores sa ceilings and walls nyo

So, nabasa ko sa interwebs na kaya sirain ng molds gradually yung mga bagay na tinutubuan nito

Para makatipin at makaiwas sa potential health problems, it is best to prevent damage to your homes

by controlling the moisture at pag-eliminate ng mold growth

Luckily, meron tayong materials na pwede gamitin to minimize yung mold growth

One such material is the Hardiflex NextGen with mold block technology na durable at mold-resistant fiber cement boards

na pwedeng gamitin sa walls at ceilings ng bahay nyo

Now, alam ko yung iniisip nyo

Pwede naman linisi ng mold sa kisami at pader, bakit kailangan ko pa nito?

Ah, yes, napakagandang katanungan yan

Pero tulad nga ng nabangit ko kanina, in as short as 3 days, pwede na bumalik ang molds

So, twice a week ka maglilinis? You do not want that

Good thing ang Hardiflex NextGen with mold block technology ay nire-reduce ang risk

of having to repair or replace the interior linings ng ceiling or pader na apektado ng toxic black mold growth

So, if you guys want to know more about Hardiflex NextGen Fiber Cement Boards

visit nyo lang yung Facebook page nila or their website

Anyway, balik tayo ulit sa ceiling, my dudes

So, bago natin may kabit ng ating mga boards, may mga parts pa na kailangan natin ilagay

Sa simpleng flat ceiling na walang reveal, we use this wall angle na 1 inch by 1 inch by 10 feet long

So, yung binibili namin na itong may fold along the edges

As you can see right there, para mas rigid siya

Although, mas mahal nga lang yung ganito and as you can see, mas matigas siya and mas maganda tignan

So, let's say gusto nyo naman ng ceiling na merong shadow reveal or may shadow gap tulad ng skypad ni my dudes later

Meron tayong W-type na wall angle for this

Kagandahan nito ay hindi na natin kailangan salpakan ng boards ito, pinturan na lang agad

Now, after all is said and done, pag naikabit na natin ang lahat ng ating ceiling framing things, time to attach the boards

So, ang Hardiflex in particular ay may specification sila para sa spacing ng screws

Para sa joists or itong ating main furring, yung spacing na recommended nila for that is 175mm minimum

Then, para sa mga transverse framing naman natin or sa mga noggins, 200mm yung spacing na nire-recommend nila for that

Tapos, magmula naman sa edge ng ating board, at least 12mm yung distansya ng ating screw at magmula sa kanto, 50mm yung distance

And, they also recommend using the official Hardi screws which are specifically designed para sa Hardiflex boards

And, ang kagandahan nito ay self-tapping na rin itong mga screws na ito which is nice

Now, one thing to look out for my dudes pag nilayout nyo yung framing ay kung saan tatapat yung lighting fixtures nyo

So, kung surface mounted ang lighting fixture nyo or pendant type, typically tinatapat namin ito sa mga furring

Ideally, malapit dito sa intersection nya ng ceiling channel

Dito kasi yung pinakamatibay na points and less ang pagsag ng board pag dyan nyo tinapat yung mga lighting fixture nyo na surface mounted

Now, pag recess naman ang ceiling lights kung saan nakalubog yung part ng ating ilaw

Sa noob ng ceiling ay as much as possible iniiwasan ko na itapat yan sa ating mga framing

Para yung board lang ang kailangan ikat so nilalagay ko sya usually dito, yan, apart na ito

That way, we do not have to worry about cutting the framing which will reduce the strength ng ating ceiling

The dog agrees with me, sabi nya, yes tama ka dyan Lian

Speaking of iniiwasan, bakit mo iniiwasan i-click yung like button?

I-click mo na yan para gumanda ang ceilings ng bahay nyo

Ano daw?